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CHAPTER THREE
- 14
Having been pleased
with the seat I thought I had achieved a large jump forward, but I was
disappointed (putting it mildly) when I went to do the final tightening
of the gearbox to the engine. I had just fitted the lug for the clutch
cable to fit onto, the one on the right ride that fits on the stud for
the engine and gearbox. Having fitted it and tightened up the nut I
thought that I had better check the other nuts holding the gearbox on.
Off I go with my trusty spanner, tightening everything I see, when I get
to the top nut, gave it a tweak until the nut was tight, then gave it a
final twist, all of a sudden it went loose. Yes – you got it! I stripped
the thread, but not on the nut, it had to be the thread inside the
housing on the engine.
Many words were spoken
when I realised what I had done, but it only really dawned on me as to
the problem that I had when I tried to take out the stud. I thought that
it would just pull out, but no I hadn’t thought that the other end of
the stud was fatter than the top half. The only way to get this sorted
was to take out the engine again. Once I‘d stopped crying!! I got on
with taking out the engine, which was not easy, as I had to be careful
not to chip and scratch the paint on the frame. Again out came the
trusty pipe lagging and wrapped the frame up again. I had to take out
the diff first, which now was quite easy as once the nuts were off it
just slid out. But it took another hour or so to manoeuvre the engine
out of the frame.
Having parted the
engine and gearbox I could see the problem, the stud wasn’t tightened in
the body enough when I attacked it with the wrench, consequently the
threads were just ripped out. I now had several thoughts on who to
blame, the first to get it was 'next doors cat', it looked at me and I
looked at it, cats must be able to read human thoughts as it ran off
very quickly when I scowled at it. The next thoughts were how to repair
it, one - liquid metal or two - Helecoil it. To make a proper job of it
I went to see Zak in Salisbury who just happened to have the right kit
for the job. I think Zak has the right kit for just about everything, if
he hasn’t got it he’ll make it!
Never having used a
helicoil I was quite impressed how they work. Once you screw them into a
hole they won't unscrew, a good piece of kit that I shall acquire.
Now, before the engine
is returned to the frame I check all studs and nuts for their strength
(you tend to learn very quickly from your mistakes), all was well and a
new confidence returned. I won’t bore you with the traumatic events
getting the engine back into the frame without chipping the paintwork as
I’m sure you’ve been there - only to say the truss needs replacing for a
tighter one, given rest the voice will come back down to its normal
level and the red colour in my face should change once the pills take
affect.
I quickly re-fitted
the diff and placed the back wheel into place. I thought that was it,
all was in place and my confidence was fully charged again. After
working on the various parts of the bike I noticed that the rubber drive
coupling was quite close to the frame, in fact it was very close. I sat
there and pondered what may be the trouble and it dawned on me that the
drive shaft was not in properly. The spring clip on the end of the
splined end was on the bottom adjustment and allowed the ends in the
coupling to slide backwards. OUT came the diff again! And I pushed the
spring to the top of the three adjustments, and to my surprise when the
dif was in place it was right. There now is a good ¼ inch between the
coupling and the frame, problem solved.
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I had to go
into inventive mode for the brake light switch as I could no
longer get the original one. I have been told that they are as
rare as “chickens teeth” or “rocking horse s - - -“, anyway I
can’t find one, well not the same size anyway. Having a few
small sheets of stainless steel plate around, and it is proper
stainless. Some so called stainless metals tend to rust after a
few months, but I have got some of the good stuff – (sounds like
moonshine liquor, “The Good Stuff”), sorry I digress. I happen
to have a few brake light switches around and the one you see is
off a Royal Enfield, it is slightly better quality than the Ural
switch, but I have a Ural switch just in case this ones dies. |
Using the rear
footrest shaft I bent a piece of the stainless into a few right angles
to get the right distance and to align with the rear brake linkage. I
then drilled and tapped the pivot on the brake linkage and inserted a
screw that fitted over another fashioned piece of stainless. As you can
see the spring that came with the switch fits neatly onto the pivot. Now
when the brake is pushed the brake switch is activated. I awarded myself
a silver star for that. To keep in Russian mode, fine adjustments on the
switch require the use of a large pair of pliers and bend the spring to
suit. |
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